My rebuild kit is finally here!

While waiting, the carburetor has spent time sitting in a Pine-Sol bath and in an ultrasonic cleaner. Both methods seemed to help, and I’m hoping that the combination of the two has done a sufficient job of cleaning everything I couldn’t get to with brushes.

I’m admittedly new to this, so I’m drawing on what I learned from rebuilding my truck’s TBI unit. There’s not much to say about taking it apart, cleaning it, and putting it back together again, but for what it’s worth, I made sure to coat all fresh rubber in ATF prior to installation. I also used ATF to lubricate all the (now very dry) threads of the screws and jets. Here are some pictures from the process:


Before attempting to charge the old battery, I topped it off with distilled water up to the “full” mark. I then found a universal AC-DC transformer I had, which has the output amperage I was looking for (600mA), and selectable voltage. To avoid damaging the power supply’s main cord, I soldered some wire to a spare fitting I had laying around, and used that to hook up some jumper wires.

After charging half a day on the 4.5V setting (which was providing an output voltage of about 6.6V), I switched it to the 6V setting (~7.8V actual) for the rest of the day. I then disconnected the whole thing and let the battery sit overnight. In the morning, the battery’s voltage was back down to 5.6, and failed a load test. Big surprise.


I bought a new battery at the local cycle shop and filled it with the included electrolyte. Not having done this before, I wasn’t expecting to see a reaction taking place behind the casing. It even became warm to the touch. Once it had settled, and the air bubbles were shook out, I put it on my homemade charger for a few hours. After disconnecting and letting the new battery sit overnight, it holds 6.3V. Now that’s better!

I’ve been resetting the electrolysis rig about 2-3 times per day by cleaning the shmoo off the anode rod (and sometimes just replacing it altogether), dumping and rinsing the tank, and refilling with solution.

After one week of this, the tank looks tons better. I’m pleased to report that the process has not exposed any leaks, and I have placed my order for a fuel tank restoration kit. I still have a couple days before it’s expected to arrive, so it can spend a little more time bathing before I put the kit to use. Here’s how the inside of the tank looks now:

Scope view- top of the inner hump
Scope view- bottom of the tank

The most stubborn remnants of rust are deep in the creases where the metal of the tank is pinched together. If the electrolysis method has plateaued, maybe the acid etch will pick up where it left off. And the sealer should lock down anything that’s still hanging around. Besides, I figure that there comes a point where you have to decide that if cleaning has ceased to remove contaminants, then those contaminants probably aren’t going to fall off into the fuel during normal use. And even if they do, the fuel filter will catch any particles before they can get into the carburetor.