One last post from Italy, and I saved the most magical (non-Trabant division, obviously) for last. It was the first night of the trip. I flew in just after sunset on Saturday, jet-lagged and disoriented, and picked up my rental car. I made the short but exciting (“alarming” might be more accurate) drive through Palermo to my accommodations in a nearby town (Monreale) and sorted out the complicated parking fee rules with the help of one of Sicily’s ubiquitous unofficial parking lot helpers (who direct you to a spot and help or “help” you pay for parking in exchange for a tip or a small markup on the ticket). I checked in, showered to wake myself up and remove the stink of many hours of air travel, and headed out to explore the town and find dinner. I walked into the main piazza in front of the cathedral to find that the local Ferrari club had gathered, and a lot of the town had come out to see the show! After dinner, I returned to the piazza as the club all started to head home. Every single one of them revved the absolute bejeezus out of their engines on the way out, much to the delight of the troops of kids running around, and also the kids at heart (everyone else). It was the best welcome I could possibly have hoped for.