It’s been about a year and... *counts on fingers* 9 months since I bought my G35. Frankly I never thought I’d own an Infiniti, let alone a G35. I was dead set on a GS400/430 or an Acura of some kind. Finding myself in the car that enthusiasts love to hate was a surprise. One test drive later and I was at a desk signing the papers. Over the course of these 21 months with my little box of trumpets, I’ve loved it and hated it. Thought about selling it but came back around again. Here’s my 21-month review of the 2007 Infiniti G35 Journey Sedan (V36).
Some of the tech specs first. The car is powered by an all-new (at the time) VQ35HR 3.5 60° V6 engine putting out 306 horsepower at 6,800 RPM and 268 ft-lbs of torque at 4,800 RPM. One major difference between this and the VQ35DE it replaced is the use of a dual intake system. Instead of a single throttle body, the HR sports two 60mm throttle bodies mounted atop each bank. The VQ35HR also fixes a PCV issue found on the earlier DE engine, which was notorious for pulling oil past the PCV valve and back into the combustion chambers. The HR which stands for ‘high revolution’ or ‘high response’ has an increased redline at 7,500 RPM. The 2007 G35 saw the debut of the VQ35HR and was used up until the death of the Q50 hybrid in 2018.
What does that all mean on the road? This car is quick. It rushes to 60 mph in roughly 5.3 seconds and blitzes the 1/4 mile in 13.9 seconds. Not quite the 10 second car that Brian built for Dom, but it’s something. Steering is very responsive, but with a curb weight of just over 3600 lbs, it tends to throw itself around tight corners. I’ve upgraded mine with adjustable rear sway bar links to remove pre-load in the sway bar which certainly helps. The sound? *applies oven mits* I like it. Before you hurt me, let me just get this out of the way. Most modified VQ engines sound like trash. Hell I’m not a huge fan of the stock VQ35DE sound. This one actually sounds nice. Most of it is just your typical V6 drone but still has a hint of that signature VQ induction and exhaust noise in the lower RPMs, just a little more toned down. The 5-speed automatic transmission shifts quickly, and leaves little power loss between gears. You do get the option of shifting via the tiptronic “slap stick” mode but it’s so slow that you might as well stick to auto mode. In general it drives nicely. The throttle is super sensitive and the car is eager to go faster. The suspension does a good job of absorbing the bumps but it is still a sports car trying to be a ‘sensible’ sedan so you tend to feel the road more often than not.
The front is nice and spacious but the rear seats are there just for fun. My 6'0" frame struggles to fit back there. Good thing I’m not a back seat driver but I do feel for my rear passengers. The trunk? Heh. It would be a little more spacious if the 6-disc CD changer wasn’t lazily added in at the top. That thing has never seen a single one of my CDs, mainly because I don’t have CDs anymore. Good thing they give you aux, but wait it’s A FUCKING RCA INPUT?! You’re telling me I need to get an RCA to auxiliary adapter in order to listen to my banging hot tunes from my cellular telephone? At least it has hands free calling, but the bluetooth signature is so old that the call quality is shit. Speaking of the center console setup, it’s nice. You get a large touch screen up top, but it isn’t the dominant method of interacting with the infotainment system. You’re given a plethora of knobs and buttons to navigate the system with. On rare occasion the system will glitch and begin cycling through all inputs at random. I don’t know why this happens but apparently there are issues with this version of the OS. Speaking of inputs, you get the option of CD, aux, AM/FM, music stored onto the car itself, and of course, CF card!
In the first year of ownership, I have done the following:
- NGK Laser Iridium DILKAR7B11 spark plugs + PCV valve - ~$110
- Wagner OEx ceramic-kevlar brake pads - ~$80
- Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ tires - ~$700
- Whiteline adjustable sway bar endlinks + sway bar bushings - ~$100
- Mobil-1 Synthetic 5W-30 motor oil change - $free
- Castrol 80W-90 differential fluid change - ~$40
- Gates serpentine belt - ~$40
- Engine/cabin air filters - ~$50
In the first year I’ve spend well over $1,000 in preventative maintenance. I briefly went over the spark plug job in an earlier post, but it is not an easy job. You have to remove the filter boxes, remove the intake ducts, and unbolt the throttle bodies because these are all in the way of those pesky plugs. The tentacle porn of vacuum lines were just adding insult to injury, but i could just push those aside. Let it be known that I would rather change the plugs in my old Honda Accord, with a transverse-mounted V6 where the back 3 plugs are buried under the dashboard. While removing the internal hex bolts holding throttle body #2 to the plenum, one of them started to strip. Fortunately I had a torx bit to grab onto it and was able to get a replacement bolt from my local Infiniti dealership.
While a lot of the chassis follows the same tried and true format for a front engine-RWD car, the engine is packed tighter than a sardine in a can. Need to change a faulty knock sensor? Good luck removing half of the engine first! Need to change the serpentine belt? Hope you don’t get your arm stuck trying to loop the belt around the crank pulley! Oh yeah these engines go through drive belts quicker than average, so you’ll be doing that far more often.
Now you’re probably wondering “how bad is the fuel economy?” and my answer is “yes.” I started out averaging roughly 16 MPG in the city which wasn’t bad considering how much traffic there is here in the Puget Sound area. However that number began to drop. 15... 14... 13... 12... Once it was hovering around 11 MPGa I decided something was wrong. I ran 1/3 of a can of Seafoam through the tank. Nothing... I ran a bottle of Red Line through the tank. Success! I gained back one MPG. Getting an oil change gave me another MPG. But I was still stupid low. DOing a soft ECU reset didn’t really do much, so I did a little more digging around online. Turns out its pretty common for the fuel level sensors to get dirty and give out a false fuel reading. The ECU simply thought I was going through more gas than I actually was. No problem. Removing the rear cushion exposes two port holes, one on each side, with the fuel pump and a secondary fuel sending unit on the opposite side of the tank. Both with level sensors. A blast of CRC QD electrics cleaner fixed the issue and I was back to getting 16 MPG city. On the highway I see 25-30 MPG which is still somewhat worse than my Accord, but I am blaming that on the overdrive gear. “Fuck you, overdrive gear!” and such.
Is it time for a summary? Sure. I love this car. It’s fast, comfortable, fun to drive, and sounds very nice. I’m sure the engine could be easier to work on, and the parts could be just a little bit cheaper maybe? Fuel economy leaves a little to be desired despite all I’ve done to make it better. But you don’t buy a G35 or even a G37 for fuel efficiency. That’s for your Honda Fits and Toyota Yarises (Yari? Yaripodes?). 21 months and roughly 5,000 miles later, I have no regrets. If you’re looking for a fun Japanese luxo-sports sedan that won’t break the bank, look no further.