Update: That yellow bullshit in the connector is half of the coolant temp sensor. In became so brittle that it snapped in half. When I removed the distributor to get to it is was hanging off like that. I’ve tried pliers to pull it out, but it just breaks it’s so brittle. I tried drilling a small hole into it and then drilling in an extrator bit and pulling it out using the drill bit as an anchor. But the bit would slip out of the chuck before it’d slide out of the connector.
And to add in some more bullshit. When I closed the hood it didn’t close all the way and it’s now stuck and I can’t open it (I just closed it normally I didn’t slam it or anything.)
I’m thinking my only option now is to cut the connector off, solder on a new one and replace the sensor afterward.
Also any advise on the hood sitution? the hood latch appears to be hooked over the bar on the hood.
Original post below
So remembering the car is OBD-II. I decide to pull any codes before doing anything. I got code 6, which is the engine temp sensor voltage high/low. Now I added coolant the other day when it was snowing. After that the coolant gauge on the dash stopped working. But I didn’t think anything of it, since the car didn’t have any temp issues before hand. Also from my experience with Honda’s this sensor is probably a separate one from the one for the gauge.
Now here’s the thing, the symptoms of code 6?
So here’s the thing. The car still won’t run without me giving it gas it just idles. But how could a sensor cause that? Is it likely the ECU just can’t function without the sensor or what? Anyway. Guess I better get a new one in there and see what happens. I’m just confused on how a bad temp sensor causes black smoke and the engine not being able to run. You’d think it could just put the fans on and go into limp mode....