My C5 Z06 is dead. It was taken from me by a lady on her cell phone. It only had 50k miles. It was so young. So young.
I have decided to endeavor to make sure its death was not in vain. Armed with a fat settlement check and a ridiculously low interest rate loan to leverage some cash, I've bumped my budget from 30k to 50k and am looking hard at E92 M3s and 996TTs.
I found what appears to be a too-good-to-be-true, absolute peach of an 03 996TT, which has me scared. It can't be as awesome a deal as it is. I also know the least about 996s of all 911s, so am double-scared.
So, I'm going to arrange to have the car inspected before I fly all the way to seattle (I'm in South Carolina). I need a shop in north seattle that knows the cars, and I need a checklist of things I'd like them to go over.
Here's the checklist so far:
1. Owner's Manuals, Maintenance Booklet
2. All keys
3. Radio code card
5. Service documents with recalls and TSBs performed
6. Print out of over revs Type 1 and Type 2 error codes
1. Check for Dual Mass Flywheel Transmission noises (rattling, knocking noises at engine start, load shift, during idling or when switching off the engine). If audible, test needs to be performed by service department to determine if replacement is needed or if working correctly and noise is related to a different component.
2. Check Oil Pressure. If oil pressure light is on, lack of oil pressure when the engine is first started. Non-return check valve is installed between the oil tank and the engine to prevent tank from emptying into the crankcase when engine is turned off. Modified check valve installed from engine number M96/70-64 1 01282. New part has a light blue paint dot.
3. Check for power loss and lack of acceleration. Poor acceleration and loss of power because of the pressure hose connecting the turbocharger inner cooler is loose. New pressure hose as of VIN 99 41S 68 5752 (July 2000). New pressure hose part numbers: 996 110 630 74 (R) and 996 110 631 73 (L)
4. Check for manual transmission damage. Second gear pops off. Caused by a assembly fault. Only occurs on transmissions up to the following number: 6530. Run the car and rollback on the throttle to see if it pops off.
5. Check to see if clutch pedal sticks. Clutch pedal may not return to its initial position or may become stuck. The axial motion in the plug-in couplings and the associated rolling of the sealing ring can admit air into the hydraulic system. A snap ring, PN 999 230 685 40, must be fitted and the system.
6. Check to see if clutch pedal sticks. Clutch pedal may not return to its initial position or may become stuck. Check slave cylinder and accumulator for replacement.
7. Check if the clutch pedal does not fully reach original position. After pressing the clutch, the clutch pedal is slow to come back up and does not fully reach its original position. This is caused by air in the hydraulic system.
8. Check for front axle differential noises. The front-axle differential makes noises in 4th, 5th, and 6th gears when vehicle is accelerated under a slight load (from 30-50mph) in vehicles equipped with manual transmission and Michelin 18" wheels. This is caused by rolling tolerances of the front wheels in relation to the rear wheels in combination with 18" Michelin tires. This is not a fault. The noises neither lead to any damage.
9. Check for noises in the steering. Clicking or grating noises during steering. Grating- This noise occurs when steering movements are made around the center position to full lock position. New stop plate required PN 996 343 107 03. Clicking - This noise occurs shortly before turning the steering wheel to full lock. A loose rod nut causes the noise. The solution is to tighten the strut piston rod fastening nut to the specified torque. Also, a longer piece of hose needs to be installed in the first few turns of the spring to replace shorter one initially in place.
10. Check for loud whistling noise from the engine area . A loud whistling noise can be heard (both inside and outside) from the engine area while driving. The noise is caused by the pressure control valve in the steering oil reservoir. Valve vibrates strongly when hydraulic oil flows through it. Fix is to replace the complete steering oil reservoir with the modified pressure control valve - PN 996 314 920 34
11. Check for noises in the rear seat well. Audible clicking-type noises in the rear seat well due to movements of the transverse reinforcement tube and contact with the rear seat well panel. Fix is to install felt tape between the reinforcement tube and the rear seat well panel.
12. Check the microswitch. Front lid lock issues with micro switch. Micro switch located on the bottom part of the front lid latch may stick causing: the light not to illuminate when the trunk is opened; the light not to go off when the trunk is closed (draining the battery); the alarm horn will sound when locking the car. A new micro switch was installed from the middle of Feb 2000 and can be identified by a yellow or blue paint dot in the micro switch.
13. Check for noises in the door lock area. Catch bar rubbing in the door lock. Fix is to spray silicone lubricant spray in the affected areas (in the inner area of the lock).
14. Check for noises from sunroof frame. Changes in the brackets as of Feb 2001 (from VIN 99 X1S 68 6484). Movement between the new sunroof frame and the roof causes creaking noises. Fix is to install two strips of Teflon tape and retorque bolts to new specs of 9.7Nm(7.4ft-lb).
15. Check for noises in the Tilting/Sliding sunroof. Muffled rattle from rear area of the tilting/sliding sunroof due to the loss of edge guard for the water drain bracket. When the edge guard is missing, the roof liner can bump into the sliding sunroof frame and cause noises. Fix is to install new edge guard for the water drain bracket.
16. Check rear spoiler operation. Rear spoiler hydraulic rams are a common failure point.
17. Check vanity mirror. If it is not working the fix (after validating fuse and light bulb) is to replace the vanity mirror PN 996 731 903 01 01C
18. Check if airbag warning light comes on. If so and it gives: Fault Codes 46 and 49. Fix is to change the seat plug connector and install a new belt buckle (passenger and driver side)
19. Validate that the memory for the seat and mirror work correctly when using the keys. As of model year 2001 if a locked vehicle is opened with the key head remote control, the driver's seat and the door mirror will be set in the position stored in the seat memory. Due to hardware fault, the radio code and the transponder code have been entered in different storage positions in the alarm control unit. Fix is to reprogram all the keys. Spare key is required when doing this.
20. Validate remote control range. If range sucks even after replacing battery the fix is to re-route antenna lead.
21. Check that the VIN matches number on the title and/or other documentation
22. Closely visual inspect the paint. Look closely at every panel. Spend at least 30 seconds per panel. Stand back and look at an entire side of the car. Make sure that the color does not vary (sign of repaint). Check that one wheel is not in better shape than any other (wheel replacement due to accident).
23. Check the tires for wear. Check if all tires are the same brand and type.
24. Check the undercarriage. Look for any scrapes/damage. Ideally put it up on a lift. Look for anything loose or worn. Make sure that the components/wear seems reasonable for the mileage on the car.
25. Check the brake pads and rotors for wear and correct thickness.
26. Check for wheel bearing play.
Anybody got anything to add to that? Anybody know of a good Porsche shop in the north Seattle area?
PS: If I do buy the car, I'm definitely taking a long weekend and driving it back to SC. 4 day road trip in a turbo Porsche, cannonball-run style? Yeah that's getting documented on here for sure.
Edit: yes I know that is a 997TT. I just wanted a pretty TT porsche pic for the leader. Here is the actual car I am looking at: