If your Ford had a Matthew McConaughey, it would be a Lincoln

Electrical troubleshooting help?

I’m frustrated. I’ve spent 10+ hours over this weekend trying to fix something—and I managed to get it working—only for it to crap out again.

My subwoofer just doesn’t want to work with me. It stopped working about a week ago, intermittently. I assumed there was a bad connection because this was my first wiring job, and my car is... Vibration-prone. Opened up the dash, looked things over, re-did a connection, jiggle some wires... And the sub started working. After an hour of driving, it cut out again and I haven’t been able to fix it.


I’ve got a 4-channel amp. The rear two channels are powering the left and right door speakers, and the front two channels are bridged to power the sub. I tried swapping the door speakers to the front two channels, and they worked just fine. The sub didn’t work hooked up to the front or rear channels. So the amp is probably not the culprit? Swapped the RCA line in’s that go from the head unit to the amp, still got no change. So the RCA cables are fine. The headunit itself seems to work. I can fade from Front to Rear, which makes it pretty easy to tell if the subs working seeing as my front channels are 100% subwoofer.

I’m getting zero volts on the multimeter when testing for power to the sub, but... I’m also getting zero volts from the speakers that are working just fine so... User error? 12.6 volts on the battery, not sure why I can’t seem to get a reading on anything else.


It has to be a power issue though, right? If everything else is working?

You know what sounds nice right now? A brand new car, that just works.

(update) I removed the sub from the enclosure and... It started to work. I think I can assume that this means any bad connection is somewhere from the sub enclosure to inside the sub. Annoying, but probably the best outcome. At least I won’t have to dig around in the dash anymore.


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