K-Roll’s Guide to Replacing your 931's RMS: Step 2.5-3

Illustration for article titled K-Roll’s Guide to Replacing your 931s RMS: Step 2.5-3

The day before Thanksgiving, I still had that evil and rounded out triple square CV bolt holding the driver side axle to the transmission. An angle grinder was brought into the negotiations, and one “French Revolution” later, it no longer had a head, and it was extracted.

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Illustration for article titled K-Roll’s Guide to Replacing your 931s RMS: Step 2.5-3

Then all that had to be done was disconnect the shift lever inside the car, disconnect the transmission from the mounts to the rear suspension in the rear, and undo the four bolts holding the torque tube to the bellhousing, as seen above. The bottom two and top right bolts are accessible without a U-joint on a socket; the fourth has a clutch slave cylinder partially obstructing the ratchets rotation, necessitating the aforementioned U-joint.

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Illustration for article titled K-Roll’s Guide to Replacing your 931s RMS: Step 2.5-3

Following this, and I mean it with the most sincerity, you’re “pullout game” must be considerably strong to separate the tube’s splined end from the bellhousing. The whole assembly is north of 50-60lbs, and you’re pulling it out horizontally while supporting the transmission in the rear with a floor jack. I held onto the car from underneath and used my legs like a press to push it the necessary 2 or so feet back to have the clearance for the bellhousing removal, which is next.

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