On the '67 Mustang I did more part throttle tuning over the last day, got my AFRs dialed in to lean out cruise as much as possible to save some gasolines. I co-opted my 17-year-old brother into driving while I twiddled with the laptop. He's only driven sub-200HP FWD cars before, so it was a treat for him unleashing more than double the power he's used to.

When we got back I noticed the cooling fan wasn't kicking on. Checking the fuse revealed a melted section of fuse block. While the company claimed it was good to 65 amps, apparently running 30 amps through one terminal was too much and melted the fuse into the block. I simply removed it from the block and powered it through the relay from the battery post with its own in-line fuse (like it used to be set up before the EFI conversion.)

I also swapped all of my spade connectors attached to the relays for dedicated interlocking sockets.

It cleaned up the appearance immensely and also removed a lot of opportunity for shorting. After a quick oopsie due to color mismatches, it was running again. I installed the heater core plate (now a delete plate) with a new gasket made from pieces cut from an O'Reilly's mudflap to pass the engine harness through the firewall.

Things left to do include replace the RH front ball joint, install the roller spring perches, mount the ECU under the dash, and as always, tune, tune, tune. I also need a new fuel cap (mine stopped venting) and the RH window regulator is shot. A track day also needs to be scheduled soon to really dial in the top end and chase the last few HP.