Ever since Tavarish started his Lamborghini Gallardo project, I have been asking questions in the comment section of every single video. What I discovered might surprise you.

His viewers are actually pretty helpful.

What questions? Well, whatever I could find in random forums and message boards on the internet. I would pick a random make/model, search for a forum, and pick one from the first page. It could have been a car that sat in front of me at a stoplight that morning, it could be the car from “Meh Car Monday,” a co-workers car, whatever.. I just picked a different one every time and asked for help about tires, non-starting issues, aftermarket radios, what tires to buy, etc.. Whatever I could find.. What you will find below are just the questions that readers replied to.

This wasn’t an attempt to troll Tavarish, just a confusing use of the YouTube comments section to see what his readers would do. Would they notice? Would they help? Would they tell me to kill myself?

Full disclosure: I got lazy and bored only getting responses every 5-6 times, so I gave up. I totally forgot about this until I looked at my drafts by accident last night. Enjoy.

Advertisement

Question: So im soon to purchase a chevy cavalier coupe, and was wondering about how i can make it more sporty without too high of cost. Some things im going to put on are cold air intake, exhaust headers.... anything else that would help me out for not too much $$ ??? THANKS

Reply: Fuck all that and super charge it. You’ll spend about the same amount


Question: 1996 Integra LS, B18B1 I just replaced the head gasket and while the head was off I lapped the valves and had a shop surface the head. Cleaned the tops of the pistons lightly, cleaned valves also, replaced Valve seals, corrected valve lash, deleted most of the A/C that did not work. Now that it is back together, I have no start. It has spark, has fuel, compression is OK. Not sure why it is not starting. It cranks. Has Pulse on injectors. Checked all the fuses and Relays. Even picked up a new main relay just in case. Not sure where to go now. Checked most of the 5V system. Was curious if the wire that was going to the A/C compressor before needs to have something done to it?

Advertisement

Reply: It could be a timing issue. I’m sorry to tell you this but I don’t think anyone is going to help you here. Have you tried searching or posting this on a forum or ask mechanics, youtube or not. Tavarish and his audience are not really experienced or knowledgeable. Hope this helps and wish you good luck.


Question: So the 95 geo metro 1.3 check engine light came back on and I did the fuse inset and it flashed 3 then 1 three times and then paused and then 5 and 1. I am assuming that is 31 and 51. Anyone have any ideas? EGR valve? Fuel pressure regulator? It is only hard to start when cold and acts like it is not firing in all plugs but when I lightly tap the throttle it will start, when it warms up it is fine. Any help would be appreciated. I just a few weeks ago fixed it from code 13 when the map sensor was unplugged from the previous owner not hooking it up. Idles way better now but now these two codes????

Advertisement

Reply: As the owner of the cheapest Geo Metro in the country I’d say it’s the EGV valve. You can find the rebuild parts at your local Canadian Tire. Don’t let anyone fool you that you need to buy overpriced parts from the Geo dealer, you can save money and have lots of fun by #wrencheveryday, like comment and subscribe for daily updates on the galaxy’s cheapest Geo Metro!


Question: I need some advice please. My gas gauge quit working on my ‘71 El Camino SS all of a sudden. I understand hooked the tan wire from sender and it went from empty to full. Ground is ok and gauge is new. The sending unit is around 8 years old. When I hooked the tan wire up it went back to empty. I believe the float or sending unit is bad. Any suggestions!

Advertisement

Reply: Put a new sender unit in it


Question: Hello, hope everyone is having a great day. I am a noob for sure in the car world but Im learning with the help of my friend Donnie. Anyway... I have a 92 Stealth that about a month ago lost 5th gear for some reason. When I bought it last year reverse was going out which is whatever. However literally just out of the blue I lost 5th as well. Now, keeping in mind Im a complete idiot that is learning... LOL. I have done some reading but not found anything very helpful. I read there are these like pully things under the hood that run the tranny. My buddy Donnie and I found them, but are not sure actually how to adjust them etc.. He does, but needs some type of diagram etc.. In a nutshell I read that sometimes those can “lose a pin” or get loose, etc... and this will cause 5th and sometimes others to seem like they are done.. IDK. Any help is much appreciated. Please don’t be to mean at the fact Im an idiot... I can book MMA fights and run any BLO/XaaS setup..... Learning cars... lol. Thanks!!!

Advertisement

Reply #1: ok... let me help you out. I race DSM cars and know most of anything about 3000 GT and Stealth. What you are talking about, losing 5th can attribute to one of many factors. But the most common factor is internal transmission issues the is underlying. Rebuilding them isn’t that expensive and easier than looking for another one which are becoming rare. Tranny is easy to drop with car lift. The pulley band doesn’t normally go out, very rare. But if I has, there is another issue as well.

Reply #2: If it’s crunchy and makes noise, your tranny needs a rebuild. If it’s the R/T turbo awd variant those transmissions are kinda weak and go out quite a bit.

Advertisement

Reply #3: Sounds like you lost your 5th gear Synchro. Most likely the trans will need to be rebuilt, or find a used one to swap out.


Question: Hello, I have a 2017 RAV4 Hybrid Limited and when transporting something bulky, and the rear gate needs to stay open. The incessant door open alarm would make anyone go insane. Is there a setting that can be changed through Techstream?

Advertisement

Reply: first mistake.... Buying a 2017 rav4. Sencond mistake. Buying that car thinking you were going to transport bulky things. Please buy a real car. Thanks.

My response: Next time I will see if they made a unlimited model. Thank you.

Reply: lol hah. Buyers remorse at its finest


Question: So I have a 1991 Dodge Dakota 3.9. I just replaced the alternator and battery in good faith it may have been related to the code 41 I have been getting. Unfortunately, it did not resolve my issue. The alternator is having an intermittent issue from time to time delivering the charge to the battery. I tested my battery with the vehicle off and it was about 12.6 volts. So I started it then checked it and it was still 12.6. So then I tested the alternators voltage and it was like 13.66 so clearly the alternators charge isn’t affectively getting to the battery. Although this problem is intermittent. It’s not 24/7 every time I drive the truck. The volt gauge just randomly drops way down and triggers the CEL then after about 10-15 minutes of driving it fixes itself randomly and everything returns to normal. I have looked at the wires and everything related to the alternator and battery but I cannot find anything out of the ordinary. Does anyone have suggestions? The alt and battery are brand new. It was doing this before they were replaced. I only have code 41. What should I do?

Advertisement

Reply #1: check to make sure your ground is good and free of corrosion where it grounds to the frame. Then check to make sure your drive belt is good (New?) and that your belt tensioner is working properly- not getting any belt slip. Look for burnt rubber splatter around the different accessory wheels. That’s where I’d look next.

Reply #2: Haha wtf? Best comment on here. More helpful info than the entire video. Grounds and clean battery terminals.

Advertisement


Question: So I’ve had a squealing alternator belt on my 1993 Capri 5 Speed for awhile now and she finally let go. I’ve researched this issue for hours and have come to the conclusion that it’s because the alternate pulley is too wide. I found someone on another forum say that the Gates XL9360 belt is a direct fit to our cars. So I went to the parts store and compared it with a Dayco belt I bought. The Gates is wider but it’s also a tad longer. Does anyone else have experience with the Gates belt? Ithe would be awsome if this fixes the issue permanently. Maybe I’m overthinking this but my Capri is my everyday driver so I have to fix it right. Ive driven my Capri for about 7 monthes now with the belt starting to squeel about a month ago or so. It’s worth noting that the belt that broke did look old and dry rotted with cracks. I seen there is a “no squeal” belt roo sport sells but unfortunately his ebay store is not up right now and I have a hard time justifying paying $45 for a belt! I also seen Capriparts have a belt for $40 and they claim IT is the correct and only belt that will permanently fix the problem...really hoping to get your guys expert advice on this one! please help!

Advertisement

Reply #1: Ha, needle in a haystack if you’re asking for that here. Go to a forum or find a YouTuber that mods that exact car without an engine swap

Reply #2: dude why do you ask such a question in someone else’s post about a lamborghini? Go to a capri forum and ask there

Advertisement

Reply #3: Just use a waist belt, they’re adjustable

Reply #4: Google is your friend https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-c2819_ds483779

Advertisement


Question: I let a neighbor park her 1996 Accura Integra in my unused attached carport. Lately I’ve begun wondering if an auto can catch fire while sitting. She never leaves it idling but I just wonder about the electrical system shorting out or the engine just spontaneously erupting into flames. She’s a good neighbor and needs the extra space, but if there are any dangers or chances that my fire insurance wouldn’t cover any damage, I’d have to ask her to move it. Is such a thing, though unlikely, still possible? I goggled the title and can find nothing. Thanks for any help.

Advertisement

Reply #1: I’m guessing you liked your own comment? No idea why you’re asking that here though. Yes, electrical fires can happen to cars that are just sitting or idling. They’re VERY uncommon though. Happens more with garaged cars that have wires that have been chewed up by rats

Reply #2: McMike Damnit Ask her to remove the battery and it should be good

Reply #3: You probably have the same chance of lightning hitting your house as you do a car randomly suffering spontaneously combustion in your driveway. You’re worrying about nothing. That car will not catch fire unless you pour gasoline on it and set a flame to it.

Advertisement

Reply #4: This comment gave me AIDS

Takuro Spirit: The important question to ask here is, is it a 2 or 4 door?

Advertisement


Question: Hello, my 1994 Buick Park Avenue 3800 runs great and starts on first turn of ignition. Driving along with engine running fine, regardless speed, when an incline is encountered and if more gas is given and more toward the top of the incline rather than early into the climb there are numerous “skips” for lack of a better description. If foot taken off the gas pedal the skips stop. Once the incline is gone the car runs great again without any skips or hesitation whatsoever. What is rather odd: car can be doing about 10mph, slam the gas pedal to the floor and the car immediately surges forward, drops into passing gear, the front of the car raises up and the car is off to the races - no spits, sputters or anything - just building speed, fast. Doesn’t matter if gas tank is full, 1/2 full or just about on empty, same problem. I changed the gas cap. Changed the fuel filter about 700 miles ago. I have also checked the coils and the spark plug wires using an HEI plug tester. All six firing really well. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Advertisement

Reply #1: the skipping is likely the transmission. I’ve had a few Buicks and it’s common to say the least lol.

Reply #2: When your car is going up an incline in a higher gear, that is when the engine experiences it’s greatest load. Believe it or not, it’s actually working much harder than it is when you floor it from a stop because it is in a lower gear, which gives the engine more of a mechanical advantage. Anyways, what usually causes the condition you are describing is weak spark, usually because of an old set of spark plugs. Change the plugs first, and if that doesn’t fix the condition then go to the wires and coil.

Advertisement

Reply#3: Check your tranny fluid


Question: So my 1996 lexus es300 overheats after driving it from a cold start after driving no more than 2 miles. the water pump is indeed leaking — but my question is, can a car overheat in just 5 minutes / 2 miles of driving based only on a water pump leak? The 1st guy told me I need a timing belt, water pump, few other random belts and it should be fine. 2nd guy (didn’t look at the car, just told him what was going on over the phone): tells me that if the car is overheating after only 2 miles its not the water pump causing the overheating, he says that the car should run much further than that even if there is no coolant in the radiator. he also says its probably a engine problem. 3rd guy: tells me the same deal as the 1st guy except that the radiator is also leaking, and the thermostat needs to be replaced along with the water pump, timing belt, alternator belt, and a few other belts... basically the whole damn thing is broke. When I drive the car after 2 miles it overheats and i can see a good amount of antifreeze ‘steaming’ out of the coolant overfill compartment. the car engine heat meter goes into the red zone. now its started to make a squealing noise too. you guys think that the water pump can be causing the overheating on its own? the only reason i’m changing the timing belt is b/c it seems like a good time to do that since its part of the water pump... but i don’t think i need a new thermostat/radiator as well does that make sense? thanks in advance

Advertisement

Reply #1: I drove 110 miles in my Audi and it was losing all it’s water. Sounds more like your fans might be the issue.

Reply #2: That or your thermostat might be stuck closed

Reply #3: good call. or maybe the water pump drive belt is slipping.

Reply #4: Change your thermostat and check if your fan working

Reply #5: First thought was thermostat. Also probably the cheapest and easiest to check.

Advertisement


Question: First let me say I appreciate you guys input on other problems I’ve had. With that said to make a long story short: girlfriend’s car won’t go into gear, so I check clutch fluid reservoir, its completely empty, fill it with fliud and clutch comes back to life but no pressure, tried pumping the clutch. And I’m sure that air got in and it needs to be bled. So here’s the newb question: Where in the hell is the clutch master cylinder located so I can bleed this damn thing and she can get to work? I really appreciate your help, and I did search already on the bleeding process so I should be good there.

Advertisement

Reply #1: clutch master is right behind the fluid reservoir but that won’t help. You need to find the slave cylinder which is mounted at the transmission / bell housing area. There will be a bleeder there. It takes forever to bleed a clutch, a vacuum bleeder helps a lot. GL!

Reply #2: check for leaks around the slave cylinder and the master cylinder if it was completely empty something is leaking or broken. My mirage did the same thing while I was driving and the slave cylinder took a shit on me and I was stuck on the side of the road.

Advertisement


Question: So I’ve had a squealing alternator belt on my 1993 Capri 5 Speed for awhile now and she finally let go. I’ve researched this issue for hours and have come to the conclusion that it’s because the alternate pulley is too wide. I found someone on another forum say that the Gates XL9360 belt is a direct fit to our cars. So I went to the parts store and compared it with a Dayco belt I bought. The Gates is wider but it’s also a tad longer. Does anyone else have experience with the Gates belt? Ithe would be awsome if this fixes the issue permanently. Maybe I’m overthinking this but my Capri is my everyday driver so I have to fix it right. Ive driven my Capri for about 7 monthes now with the belt starting to squeel about a month ago or so. It’s worth noting that the belt that broke did look old and dry rotted with cracks. I seen there is a “no squeal” belt roo sport sells but unfortunately his ebay store is not up right now and I have a hard time justifying paying $45 for a belt! I also seen Capriparts have a belt for $40 and they claim IT is the correct and only belt that will permanently fix the problem...really hoping to get your guys expert advice on this one! please help!

Advertisement

Reply: Something is loose..or somethingn wrong with ya oil intake


Question: Hello, I got my used 2015 Nissan Leaf about a week ago and today there was a new noise. When I shut the car off, it started making a very loud sustained high pitch noise near the dash. I walked out of the car and checked that the noise was not coming from under the hood. It was the loudest by the dashboard. It went away after about 5-10 minutes. Then when I got home and shut off the car it happened again. It again stopped after about 5-10 minutes. I found out today that the 12 volt battery needs to be replaced. Maybe these are related. If anyone has an idea of what this is I would appreciate any tips. thanks

Advertisement

Reply #1: Step on the accelerator until it hits the floor. Hold it there for 30 mins.

Reply #2: Ditch that electic piece of shit and get a real car


Question: 2002 Focus ZTS, 150k miles Alternator failed last week, about 1/2 mile after leaving my driveway, I was able to turn around and make it back. Car had been running great up to that point. Ordered rebuilt alt from RA, MOTORCRAFT GL8881RM. After installing, voltage back up within range, but idle is not right - stumbling a bit and rough, minor surging. Checked all connections and vac lines that were in the area of alt nothing out of sorts. On highway, car runs smooth. Maybe just needs to relearn? Sitting in traffic, I notice my temp gauge starts to creep past straight up “norm” position. I recently replaced the entire fan assembly after melting through several of the cooling harness connectors that plug into the fan t-stat. I check all of the connectors - not melted- and after letting the engine idle in my driveway, the fan kicks on at the appropriate time. Drive car the next day and all is fine, and the start-up idle seems back to normal. Then the CEL comes on mid drive at a stop light. I have one of those ELM327 OBD2 interfaces and so I go to retrieve the DTC. With 3 different apps (iPad) I cannot connect to the vehicle. I test the interface on my Fusion and it works fine with the same apps. Fuses all look good related to OBD2/ engine computer. I use the hidden menu on the odo screen to check codes - no stored codes! CEL is still it! Just now messing around with the ELM327 dongle again trying to get it to work, I start car and CEL is NOT lit, but engine is back to stumbling idle!! I’m not sure what to do next?

Advertisement

Reply: Junk it.