Awhile back, I decided to order a factory-style fog light kit for my Accent as I miss having them in poor weather. That kit arrived last week and on the 27th, I decided I would try and get the interior wiring harness from the kit installed.
The problem was, my wiring didn’t work and I couldn’t get the switch to light up....argh. This morning I had some free time again, so I took everything apart for a second time and checked on the lame I-probably-shouldn’t-use-it-but-don’t-have-any-plugs-near-my-car-to-solder-it clip-on style wire tap I was using to steal a power signal for the relay from my leftmost 12v socket inside the car (Accents have 2 12v sockets!).
When I popped it open, it was clear that the tap hadn’t actually TAPPED through the insulation on the wires...bummer. It would take a million extension cords to get my soldering iron to the car to actually strip it and solder everything up, so I decided I would cheat a bit and use some wire strippers to open the insulation on the wires JUST (i.e. a millimeter or two...) enough to try putting the connector on them and squeezing it on hard with a pair of pliers to properly clamp down on and pinch the wires.
While I was at it, I also decided to get around to running the ‘extension’ cable through the firewall - the ‘extension cable’ being the power from the switch that would run through to trigger the relay in the engine compartment and connect the interior harness with the engine bay harness. I used a bent clothes-hanger and copious amounts of scotch tape to try and VERY carefully push the ‘extension cable’ (the single red one in the pic) through the existing main grommet in the firewall and then bolt it back on - luckily the cover in the driver’s footwell is very easy to remove and replace, just two 10mm bolts!:
The wire runs from the interior harness cover up and to the left around near the fuse box and through 2 zipties along the bottom of the dash trim over to the 12v socket location:
I checked my wiring - the ground wire was fine where I had mounted it to a bolt for the driver’s side kick panel and I uncovered the plastic I had on the lead for the ‘extension cable’ and plugged that in:
On the engine bay side, I ran into three issues....one larger than the others. The smaller issue was that my hanger/tape/wire method to get the ‘extension cable’ through the wiring harness grommet had worked.....but rather than coming out the end, it had poked a hole in the grommet, itself and come out through that...you can see it barely missed coming out the booted end of the grommet where it was supposed to and came out that little hole instead. I actually left it like that as the wire is pretty light and there isn’t much tension on it, so I don’t think the boot on the grommet will rip through over time or anything, but I could be wrong (hopefully not!). I pulled the wire through from the interior into the engine bay rather than the other way around as there is almost no space to work on the engine bay side.
Do you guys think this will be OK?
The second small issue is that there is no easy place to run the ‘extension cable’ on the engine bay side that doesn’t pass nearby things....where the wire comes out is very close to my brake system so the wire may rub on it a bit. Nothing sharp there, so it SHOULD be ok, but closer than I’d like.
For now, because I didn’t get the actual lights or engine bay harness installed, I ziptied the wire to an existing part of the harness to bring it up and over the driver’s side strut tower and carefully covered the end of the ‘extension cable’ with a baggie and a twist tie to protect it from shorts and slid it down into the fender where it wouldn’t touch anything hot:
ignore all the pine needles and waxy undercoating sealant on my strut towers....the shop I use GOES TO TOWN with the stuff in the engine bay...really annoying when you’re working in there, especially on hot days like today because it gets very greasy and....gooey...and sticks to everything, like your hands. I twist tied the baggie-ended ‘extension cable’ to one of the fender mount points so it wouldn’t slip so far in somewhere where I couldn’t easily get it back out next time.
The final BIG issue is that one of the front two bolts I have to remove to get the bumper off and install the lights is....stripped. The driver’s side bolt comes out for fun, but the passenger bolt just spins in place despite me using the ‘gently rock it back and forth’ trick to try and get it unstuck....it seems like it stripped itself anyway.
The Accent is in the shop tomorrow morning to get some light surface rust underneath touched up before it grows into something worse, so seeing as I don’t have any power cutting tools at all, I’ll see if they can get the bolt off and out for me and re-tap the hole so I can finally get the bumper off and get the damn lights mounted!
Despite that HIGHLY ANNOYING occurrence with the bolt, there was some light at the end of the tunnel. I put everything back together in the interior and reconnected and put back my 12v sockets to make sure they still worked as they should:
All was well there, so it was time for the moment of truth to see if I had the interior wiring fixed and working this time...I pressed the new fog light switch to see if it would now get power and...
HOLY CHEESEBALLS...it works! Because it’s wired to accessory power, the switch’s fog light symbol lights up ALL the time regardless of if the lights are on or not. Not a big deal at all, but pressing the button lit up the little green indicator light as needed! At least the wiring on the INSIDE of the car is done now! Now if only I can get that bumper sorted to replace the grill insert...