Illustration for article titled The suspension-o-matic bears fruit!

Now if only I knew what a good camber curve looked like...

Tested the stock setup, a number of aftermarket options, and a couple of custom locations. Came to some interesting conclusions. For instance, the much-maligned stock setup actually seems to have quite a good camber setup for cornering (for a car with a decent amount of roll), but would likely suffer under braking or acceleration.


The aftermarket lowering blocks (represented by the -13/4" and -1" versions) reduce the high positive camber on droop, but replace it with negative camber so would likely be more stable under braking, but less grip in corners unless the added 0.5 degree negative camber on bump offsets that.

The aftermarket relocation brackets (Canleys) also reduces the sharpness of positive camber on droop, but replaces it all with negative camber. When you start lowering it, things start getting really weird. -3/4" is pretty much zero camber change, aside from full droop. -1" is all over the place.

Racing -1" is a location derived by a very clever individual to produce zero camber change over the whole of the suspension travel, so it’s reassuring that the same result is found using my model :)

The suspension design pioneered by another GT6 owner (Under) produces very slight camber change (less than a degree either way), and in the right direction. Would work very nicely on a car with very little roll.


3 choice picks of my dozen or so experimental locations are interesting too. I like option 2 and 9, although again would probably need to have very little roll if my understanding of optimal camber is correct. Option 4 is even more interesting for racing as you can have dead-flat wheels on droop meaning nice straight braking, but still have a little negative camber on corners.

Now I just have to take the favourites and work out where the roll centres are...

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