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Two non-vital PSAs:

1) the ~$180 New Holland ”special diagnostic tool” part number 380000843 is a simple jumper installed in the semi-proprietary diesel OBD plug that shorts +12v to pin 3(i think it’s 3, see pic). This gets you access to the hidden service menus in many recent CNH tractors and heavy equipment. You can replace this specialized, hard to procure piece of technical equipment with a bent paperclip, or small, sharp pointed needle-nose pliers.

Inside the back cover of the “special tool”
Inside the back cover of the “special tool”
Screenshot: Some forum
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Note that only two connections are populated with conductor pins. It’s a jumper, that’s all it does.
Note that only two connections are populated with conductor pins. It’s a jumper, that’s all it does.
Photo: Vapormatic (ebay seller)

(you should at least look up the “HH” menu tree for your target machine, as if you just randomly change shit you can severely damage expensive drive line components, or even the engine.)

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2) If you have a Hyundai/Kia product with the 1.6t and the 2nd generation 7-speed DCT (model D7UF1 2017+) and you are having clutch slip issues or poor shift quality, skip the trip to the dealership and try this first:

Illustration for article titled Two non-vital PSAs:
Illustration: Hyundai
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1- Drive enough to warm the car up to normal operating temperature. Park your car in a flat, level spot and securely chock the wheels with appropriate chocks, or use concrete parking bumpers or a curb to prevent the vehicle from moving forward (or backwards for clutch 2) DO NOT set the parking brake. Just shift to park, and turn off the car.

2-open and close the driver’s door once.

3- start the car 3b- press the sport button to put the car into sport mode BEFORE shifting into drive.

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4-shift to drive, release the foot brake and allow the car to attempt to creep forward against the chocks, DO NOT apply throttle.

5- for cars with an engine torque monitor in sport mode (Kia Soul Turbo, Veloster Turbo, Elantra N-line, etc) watch the torque monitor, it will creep up as the computer lets out the clutch and feathers the throttle to attempt to get the car to creep, once the torque plateaus and stabilizes you may now step on the brake and shift to park. 5b- For vehicles without the torque monitor watch the tachometer and listen to the engine carefully to determine when load is stabilized. In no case should the car be allowed to push against the chocks for more than about 20-30 seconds, the clutch could overheat if left in this state and damage the friction plate. 5c-DO NOT set the parking brake.

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6) turn off the car, open and close the driver’s door once.

If all went well you should have just forced the car’s transmission control computer to recalibrate the clutch touch point for the number 1 (odd gears, 1, 3, 5, 7) clutch without a visit to the dealership. At a dealership this complaint would have been addressed by first hooking the car to the diagnostic computer and clicking the “recalibrate touch point” button. If this solved the slip/shift issues they would send you on your way with an hour or more of your life wasted in a waiting room and a bill for dealership labor for something that took them less than a minute to fix. To be fair, they have access to other diagnostics should the touch point recalibration fail, and it may be covered under warranty, but if this works, and there are no MIL codes, you’ve just accomplished the same thing in your driveway or parking lot without the waiting room experience.

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To perform the calibration on clutch 2 (even gears, R, 2, 4, 6) repeat all steps as above, except shift into reverse, not drive (chocking the wheels appropriately for direction of travel).

If a touch point recalibration does not solve your problem, you’re probably gonna have to go see the dealership after all.

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This has been a two-part non-vital Oppo PSA.

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