The rear mount project is progressing, still have yet to figure out how to get the oil system to be reliable but,”improvements” have been made on that front. Also replaced both turbos, so I basically set fire to $250.

The oil pumps have been switched to shurflo water pumps, having done too little research the original pumps had a duty cycle of 30 minutes, would do 3.7gpm(which is twice necessary amount), and a max temp of 140°F. These shurflos are continuous duty cycle, do 1.8gpm and have a max operating temp of 180°F. The operating temp is a little lower than I’d like but oil temps stay around 150°.

Put gold heat tape over the fuel tank even though it dosent get hot enough to need it, Heat wrapped the exhaust to keep it cooler in the trunk, and have one of two HKS air filters replaced with K&N units that are capable of actual filtering.

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The oil reservoir sits in the trunk and is pressurized to control and increase the overall oil pressure, the pump alone pulling through a 4an line will only create about 8psi. The problem is oil pressure changes depending on temp and the valve that vents pressure needs to be adjusted to compensate. Previously the valve was in the trunk but that required stopping all the time to adjust it, soooo the current solution is to run a 3/8 line from the trunk into the center console and have the pressure adjustment right there. I’d like to have the system work without fiddling every 10 minutes but that might be a ways out.

Turns out 10an drains for the turbos are too small, so above 35psi the shaft seals leak and oil drips into the compressor and turbine.(my current theory for why this is happening) With the turbos being so far back much of the oil dosent burn and it just drips out the back.

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I’m thinking the solution may be to have a oil reservoir box built and set it below the turbos aswell as installing larger drain fittings. This is an expensive option but it would allow both turbos to have an independant oil pump and gravity drain like their designed. It would also keep the oil cooler having the reservoir in the path of air lower to the ground. Clearly the real solution is to tap into the motors oil pressure to feed the turbos, then pump it back but I’ve gone too far with this setup to abandon it now. If it comes to that I’ll already have the pumps and most the fittings ready.

Bov housing is being used as an adapter between the TB and the intake tube because I’m cheap. Bov is not being used because the pressure is low and it messes with the maf signal when it opens.

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Installed plugs with a higher heat range(from 6 to a 7), replaced my plug wires after only 4-5000 miles(don’t get me started), and changed the valve cover gaskets for the second time on this motor. Since the wires apparently don’t last long I bought the cheapest set money can buy, which was $50 B&B wires compared to $100 for the Duralast. They fit predictable for half the cost, 6 out of 8 plugs are inches too long. That being said 2 of the Duralast wires were too short so apparently measuring oem wire length is hard for parts suppliers.

Shaft play got a tad excessive from running on 0 oil pressure for too long, hence switching to different oil pumps and replacing the turbos. Not pictured was the bent turbine vanes and,”resurfaced” compressor housing.