I have finally convinced Mrs. blacktruck that I need to do this. It’s happening!!!!

If you have know idea what I am talking about see this video.

So I need some help, opinions, and thoughts on anything I might have missed. Also, the formatting might be weird I copied this out of the notes I have been making in Word since the first time I saw the video.

WHY?

Because it’s f’n awesome. In all seriousness, I have always loved dune buggies and go cart like cars. I would love to own an Ariel Atom V8, Caterham R500, or an X-Bow. Unfortunately, those are really f’ing expensive, or not available in the states. After I saw the Roadkill episode I realized I could build something just as cool as one of those for way cheaper. So now I am doing it.

The rules as set forth by Mrs. blacktruck:

1. My budget will be $10,000

2. It has to have a full cage, 5- point harnesses, window nets and I have to wear a helmet every time I drive it.

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3. She never has to ride in it if, she doesn’t want to. I guess we have differing views on safety.

That’s it for the rules. I am fine with all of these, I had planned on all of the safety equipment and wearing a helmet anyway. No big deal there.

Laws because Illinois Nazi’s:

1. The car will have to be registered as a custom vehicle. Which isn’t an issue.

2. The car will have to be inspected by the state police for legality before I can register it as a custom vehicle. This really isn’t a big deal but something I will have to do.

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3. Where we will be living in Illinois doesn’t require emissions, no problems there.

4. It will have to have headlights, brake lights, and blinkers.

5. If the car is newer than 25 years it will have to have a windshield and wipers. If it is older it will not. (This will be important later)

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6. The car will have to have bumpers. No problems there I will just get some extra bars welded to each end of the frames and call it bumpers.

GOAL:

Running and driving, street legal LS powered go-cart for less than $10,000. Under 2,000 pounds wet. 50/50 weight distribution.

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Long term goal:

0-60 under 4 seconds, 1.0g skidpad. Eventually, maybe make some body work, just to cover the engine and the gaps from the in the cage in the area where the doors would be. Artist rendering below

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The Plan:

1. We will be moving back to Illinois in July, I am going to start looking for a car then.

2. Spend next winter stripping the car and selling all of the parts on e-bay, craigslist and forums.

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3. Drive it on the street starting next spring and start working out the suspension for racing it. Hopefully by next July or August I will be able track it.

Very Vague Build Plan:

1. Strip car filling all unnecessary holes in firewall.

2. Get NHRA and SCCA certified roll cage built and installed. I like the way the cage on the Roadkill car looks, but I want some extra bars on the sides under the windows so my legs don’t go flailing about in the event of a roll over. See artist rendering below:

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3. Rattle can all exposed metal and cage. I haven’t decided on a color yet, maybe spray on some rattle can clear coat. This is to protect the metal and make it look halfway decent.

4. Add fuel cell.

5. Relocate battery, master cylinder and other heavy things to the back. Trying to get to 50/50

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5. Seats and Harnesses

6. I found some headlights on rallylights.com that have built in blinker in the headlight housing. Those will keep the car start legal.

7. If I do use a Corvette (more on that later) I will just have some mounts welded to the cage for the brake lights, then use the stock lights mounted towards the middle in the back. This will satisfy the brake light/blinker requirement for the rear of the car. I also want to mount the 3rd brake light from whatever I buy on top of the cage facing backwards, for extra safety. (see artist rendering below)

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7. 17x12 inch wheels in the back 17x10’s in the front. I know that the rear wheels seem a little excessive but, I don’t want this to be a burnout machine. I want it to be able to drive it in auto-x events and drag race it so, I will be putting 335 width tires on the back.

POSSIBLE CANDIDATES

90 or older C4: This is obvious it’s since what they used it on roadkill.

Pros:

No windshield, this isn’t a super big deal but, I think having a windshield will take away from the driving experience and look of the car.

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Cheap to buy, I have spent quite a bit of time looking on ebay and Craigslist looking at these. Finding one in good condition for $4-5k will be no problem at all.

Can keep taillights

Cons:

LS swap, I know I can stay in budget doing an LS swap but, it is going to add time to the build. I am not going to cut corners just to get this on the street. But, I also want to get it done quickly and cheaply.

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C5 Corvette:

Pros:

It already has the drivetrain I want. This will make the build much easier

The Hydro-formed aluminum frame in these cars is super strong.

Cons:

$$, finding a C5 and, getting this done for less than $10,000 is going to be difficult

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I will have to keep the windshield and wipers. The laws don’t say anything about the size they have to be but, I think just keeping the stock ones will save time and money. This could probably negate the helmet rule per Mrs. blacktruck so, I won’t have to wear a helmet. But, I think it will take away from the look and feel of the car.

1998-2002 Camaro:

Pros:

Basically the same as the C5 but it will be cheaper to buy. $5-6K should be plenty. Therefore, easier to keep in the $10,000 limit.

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Cons:

I will want to change out the taillights to something smaller. 4th gen Camaro taillights are huge.

Starting with a heavier car but, I don’t know what the weight difference will be when it is stripped. Also from the pictures of frames I have seen on-line I can just cut about a foot of the back of the frame. It won’t save a ton of weight but it will be something.

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Minimum to buy list and, estimated costs excluding car:

I have already looked into all of this and I am estimating these prices high. I am try to be go worst case scenario:

Fuel cell $300

Seats $1500

Harnesses $400

Cage $1500-2000 installed

Headlights: $300

Taillights if needed: $200

Battery Relocation kit: $50

Rollcage padding: $200

Wheels and tires: $1500

Engine management system if I don’t use one of the LS cars: $600

Steering wheel: $300, not necessary but I would like something racier then the stock wheel.

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Gauges: Not necessary but I would like to use a racepak IQ3 gauge set $600

SALVAGE TITLE CAR:

I have thought buying an insurance sale car quite a bit. I don’t necessarily want to do this. If the car has frame damage, even if it was fixed it could destroy the whole plan. Also, I don’t know if the savings will outweigh the money I could make selling all the body parts and stuff off the car.

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Oppo’s thought’s, feel free to chime in with anything.