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Wake Up And Smell The Gasoline (Updated With More Photo)

Illustration for article titled Wake Up And Smell The Gasoline (Updated With More Photo)

Good morning Oppo. This AM’s to-do list: carb diaphragm, new regulator spring, new air filter, oil change, new spark plug. Gas tank already spilled on me. Wakey wakey. Update: All done. Started on first pull. Sliced right through the stuff that used to stall it!

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I assume that nobody will ever use this as a guide, but just the obligatory warning - step one when working on lawnmowers: always disconnect the spark plug before doing anything!

The spring and filter looked fine but I replaced them anyway because they come in the diaphragm kit.  Getting the new filter on was actually the hardest part of this whole process.
The spring and filter looked fine but I replaced them anyway because they come in the diaphragm kit. Getting the new filter on was actually the hardest part of this whole process.
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This looks pretty good thankfully.
This looks pretty good thankfully.
The top of the tank where the diaphragm goes looked great.  The diaphragm itself not so much.
The top of the tank where the diaphragm goes looked great. The diaphragm itself not so much.
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Found a helper to speed things up!
Found a helper to speed things up!
New filter.
New filter.
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Carb and tank back in place (but not bolted on - note the regulator hasn’t been pushed back behind it’s stop yet) after I oiled the carb O-ring with some SAE 30 oil.  This whole thing is a pretty easy process.  The carb is held to the tank with 5 Philips head screws and the tank is held to the motor with two screws that use a 3/8 and a 1/4 inch socket.  The breather is just a rubber slip fit hose and the carb seals against the intake when you screw the tank back to the motor.  The only catch is that you need to rotate the tank a little over 90 degrees to get the throttle rod back through the regulator so if the tank isn’t empty you can expect to spill some gas out through the carb bowl.
Carb and tank back in place (but not bolted on - note the regulator hasn’t been pushed back behind it’s stop yet) after I oiled the carb O-ring with some SAE 30 oil. This whole thing is a pretty easy process. The carb is held to the tank with 5 Philips head screws and the tank is held to the motor with two screws that use a 3/8 and a 1/4 inch socket. The breather is just a rubber slip fit hose and the carb seals against the intake when you screw the tank back to the motor. The only catch is that you need to rotate the tank a little over 90 degrees to get the throttle rod back through the regulator so if the tank isn’t empty you can expect to spill some gas out through the carb bowl.
Old regulator spring was FUBAR.  This was probably the source of most of my problems.
Old regulator spring was FUBAR. This was probably the source of most of my problems.
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New spring in place.  Note that I put the regulator back where it belongs against the stop.
New spring in place. Note that I put the regulator back where it belongs against the stop.
Two 5-gallon paint buckets make a great lift for draining oil.  I hate the stupid drain plugs B&S use that just use a 3/8 inch ratchet drive square to remove, but never quite fit right.
Two 5-gallon paint buckets make a great lift for draining oil. I hate the stupid drain plugs B&S use that just use a 3/8 inch ratchet drive square to remove, but never quite fit right.
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Eww.
Eww.
Old plug, new plug.
Old plug, new plug.

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