Doggo is helping

So this weekend’s tasks were fairly straightforward: fix my ABS “shuttle valve” wiring, fix my driver’s side door lock, and fix at least one of the power locks.

Easy! ...right?

I had the instructions printed out for shuttle valve wiring bypass and a pretty good understanding of what to do.

For the driver’s door lock, the stock lock pins are known for breaking, so I ordered a new, fan made, locking pin from eBay, allegedly much better than stock, figuring this was the problem.

Lastly I’d also ordered extra salvage but fully tested door latches a while back and had those ready to go in.

None of that went to plan.

Shuttle Valve(s)

Confident I knew what I was doing, I began the process of removing the ABS pump and valve assembly. I ended up removing a bunch of crap I didn’t need to. Turns out when people say it is pretty easy to remove the shuttle valves they are right… but only if your aren’t being cocky and only read half the directions.

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The approved method

Anyway, the valves (which are actually electrical switches, but whatever) out, I put them on the bench to test. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand they were bad.

No, I hadn’t ordered spares, they’re expensive! No, I couldn’t repair them, the switches are potted. No, I couldn’t buy them locally, the Land Rover parts counter was closed. No, they don’t ship with prime. Ok, well looks like I can get them here this week, so…. NEXT.

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My ex-valves

Driver’s Door Lock

Old vs “Improved”

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The door came apart pretty readily and I could immediately see the pin wasn’t the problem as it was fully intact. I tested the mechanism and it worked fine, so my only conclusion is the lock pin wasn’t correctly seated. (This is not a hard thing to mess up, I soon learned) The summary is getting the lock back together was a complete nightmare and took me the rest of the day to complete. Also the “improved” lock pin was too large. Also in the process I managed to change the handle pull adjustment and now instead of feeling solid and competent, it feel like opening the door of a shed. Poop.

Passenger’s Door Lock

For as long as I’ve owned the car, only the driver’s side and rear cargo door’s power locks have worked. Apparently this is a common problem and the only real fix is to replace the entire latch assembly.

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Shown - everything can can go wrong

Yes, you heard me. The power lock motors are built into the door latch. Essentially if anything goes wrong with the door latch, you have to replace the entire thing. (There are instructions on how to disassemble and repair this unit, but they’re time consuming and fraught with peril.)

So anyway, having learned from the last two tasks, I read the directions twice before proceeding.

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Yeah, turns out the directions were overly generic and contained a bunch of unnecessary steps. Horray!

Anyway, I finally get the latch out, swap the new one in, went to test it and… same performance as before. “FUlly tested!” Thanks eBay!

After confirming the problem wasn’t electrical in nature, I went online and ordered a NOS unit, which should be here around the same time as the shuttle valves.

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My attempt at disassembly didn’t go well either

In Summary

I set out to complete three tasks and managed to partially complete one.

Lessons Learned

  1. Don’t buy used parts on a high failure item.
  2. Read the directions, but also watch youtube videos to figure out what corners to cut.
  3. Test parts as you receive them, don’t trust sellers
  4. Make sure your car is out of the way if you’re going to start a car-disabling level project.
  5. I might be really bad at this