So some other interesting stuff from the previous owner.
Seems like a new radiator support was brazed in at some point. So definitely some repair work at some time. Given the lack of crushed frame rail most likely a head on collision with the radiator and support taking the brunt of the damage.
I finished up the interior and added some reinforcement for where the seats were going to bolt in.
The driver side also got a similar treatment but, as it would be uncomfortable/weird to have a beam through the center of the car, I added a flat section right underneath the pedals
A friend had borrowed a plasma cutter to cut up a car, so I went over with my heavy sheet stock to cut out some patterns
Way faster then a die grinder, but a lot of finishing work was required.
I ordered quite a bit of bar stock.
The plan was to have enough material for a couple strut braces, fix the roll bar, and make an independent harness bar.
Interestingly enough, the 240z was rallied in the african rally. I am not sure if it was due to the homologation rules, but underneath all the rear quarter windows there is a location of 3 captive nuts where the factory racing roll bar was bolted in.
So I whipped up a harness bar after finding a design online
And ended up installing it. I had to adjust the holes a bit, but I think it turned out well.
The roll bar also had some work to be done. It turns out it used to have a parallel bar right across the back. The PO of the bar had decided to cut out the parallel/seat back mount bar so he could recline his seat and had put a washer and duct tape on the end and painted over it make it look like it was capped.
That wouldn’t do. I ordered up the correct thickness tubing and removed the remnants of the parallel bar and put in the diagonal brace
So onto the reinforcement. The 240z chassis is light, a problem that arrises from this is that there are places which are quite weak, combined with the common rust spots the front in not very solidly attached to the rest of the car. The front sway bar is attached with outserts onto the C-channel engine bay rail and have on many occasions pulled the nuts out when upgraded to thicker sway bars. So to address that a company called PDK came out with a beautiful strut brace system that connects both shock towers together, then to the sway bar mounting point, then back to the firewall. Unfortunately they stopped making the bracing system, but fortunately they left the instructions available for the commoner to look at. I took some cues and made my own.
To prevent the sway bar from pulling out the nuts, one has to have a plate on top with larger hardware to hold the pulling motion of the sway bar. However if one has the plate on top of the C channel with through bolts, you would end up crushing the rail, thus you add bedding posts like so.
Mirror on the other side and voila just needs the brace across the center and you have a decent bracing system.
I actually tested this by standing on the lateral beams, no movement whatsoever. Quite impressive if I do say so my self :D.
With the front finished up, I applied some etch primer to keep the front from getting rusty and moved to the rear of the car.
Learn the basics, once you have them down the world is your oyster.
Research research research. Probe and poke you can find quite a bit of information just by looking around.
Laying down paint on something you just fixed is one of life’s great pleasures. Covering up bad repairs with paint is one of life’s great sins.
That little spray can button presser trigger thing at the hardware store, totally worth it.
250 - more bar stock and 3/16 steel plate and steel sheet
50 - miscellaneous hardware (hitch pins, bolts, nuts, washers)
50 - paint
50 - new tank of welding gas
Total spent: 6265