So from here on out, I’m just going to estimate the cost of things +/-$5 because I’m to lazy to go through and look at all the receipt. Also I will completely stop saying “Hopefully this will be the last expensive thing.” Because I don’t think there will every be a last one. Anyways.


So the distributor on the car would up dying on me. A reman one was $50, but didn’t come with a cap and rotor. Those came out to about $15 from Rock Auto. Then later, that distributor quite working, and they wouldn’t give me a refund, but I did get a replacement. It took a few days to come in so I just bought a complete distributor from O’Reillys for $200 :(


There was also the saga of the coolant temp sensor/connector. The plastic end the temp sensor melted and broke off into the connector. A new connector and sensor were $20. But the sensor took a more few days to come in than the connector. So I bought a sensor from AutoZone for $20. (Well actually two, but I was able to return one.)

There was also so cheap miscellaneous stuff, like a grommet for the hood prop, radio bracket, and the shifter bushings. Which altogether were about $25.


And I almost forgot, the window regulator broke and was $40 for a replacement.

Entry Total- $350

Running Total- $1,768

Running Total + Cost of Vehicle- $2,668


The tires and installation were prepaid for, so those are already entered. But I had to buy a grease gun, grease, and hose to fill up the ball joints.


Grease gun and misc- $20

I also got the alignment done which was $90. I also got a coupon for a $20 oil change. As I was tired working on the damn thing and a 5 qt jug of oil is nearly $20 anyway, I used it.


Edit: I almost forgot the battery that was killed by the cooler winter weather. $130.

Entry total- $260

Running total- $1,418

Running total + Cost of vehicle= $2,318

So the good news is that when all’s said and done. I should’ve spent less than the insurance payout ($2,500 IIRC, I haven’t received it yet) and by then it’ll hopefully be running well and have a working radio and A/C!



“Oh boy, hopefully this will be the last bunch of big purchases for this car.”

This should be for real this time.

So I tested the O2 sensor, and it’s bad. I also checked the suspension (previous post) and it needs new outer tie rods and upper control arm ball joints.


I got the O2 sensor and tie rods from rock auto for...


Then I got a pair of UCA from ebay for $40. I checked the forums and people had no issues with them. A few even claimed they were the OEM parts themselves, so I went full Tavarish on that.


Entry total- $125

Running total- $1,158

Hopefully my only remaining expense will be getting it inspected ($7) and registered. I’m just gonna get the Army veteran plates which will waive most of the registration fees since I’m done spending money on this thing for a while.



Oh boy, hopefully this will be the last bunch of big purchases for this car.

So I got home the other day and got an email for 20% off at Advanced Auto, then when I went to their website they had another code for 25% off with a max saving of $50 on each code.


So lets begin. (Prices are before discount)

Pyle Card immobilizer- $97.99

Double din head unit- $114

Multimeter (my last one was in the car when it was stolen)- $30

Wiper blades- $31

Subtotal (with discounts)- $228

Also a few days ago I bought one of those old school lace up steering wheel covers since my steering wheel is trashed.

Illustration for article titled What it costs to drive a $900 car

Also does anyone have any ideas for how I should fill in the steering wheel? The pictures a little too zoomed in to tell, but there’s a fair amount of material missing I’d like to fill in before putting the cover on.


Steering wheel cover- $17

Entry total- $245

Running total (w/o cost of car)- $1,033


I ordered the wheels and tires from discount tire. All together it was $713 dollars (including tax and labor, although they’re obviously not mounted yet) I bought 3 steelies since there was already one on the car. For the tires, I upgraded from the General Altimax to some Falken all-season the discount tire guy said were better. They were a little more expensive, but less than ordering a 4th wheel. So I would say it was a decent deal.


Also the day before I got the title for the car and paid the sales tax which was about $70 together. Still haven’t gotten it registered as it’ll surely need new tires to pass inspection along with a few other things.

Also today. I noticed that the CEL wasn’t coming on during startup. So I replaced the bulb ($5!) and there’s 3 codes.


P0325 (Knock sensor: the sensor itself, not knock)

P0135 (A/F sensor)

P1399 (Clogged EGR or valve clearance issue)

As I mentioned previously. The air intake is held together with duck tape. So I imagine fixing that will probably solve the second code and maybe the third one.


All in all none of them appear to be too serious. Also as two sheds mentioned, it might have an engine from and older gen one which may not have a knock sensor, thus causing the first code. I haven’t check the engine code yet though.

Running Total (Not including cost of the car)- $788

Illustration for article titled What it costs to drive a $900 car

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