i got this car with some very expensive yet not very “me” schnitzer 3 piece type 2 wheels. they’re 11 inches in the rear and go well beyond the fender lip. the 275 tires were stretched and tucked under the lip, with some rubbing under full travel.
so i started on the hunt for some new wheels for this heavy beast. the choice was first between 5 starts or a mesh-type wheel (turbine style dont do it for me). after lots of window shopping, i figured i wanted an alloy silver finish (no chrome or polished) and a dished wheel. and i decided on mesh, as i thought 5 stars were more suited to sports cars.
anyway... finding the right combination of style size and fitment (and everything that goes into fitment) without spending >1,000 isn’t the easiest task. but i decided on a set of Rondell 58's. but of course these have been out of manufacture for nearly 15 years. so finding a set required daily craigslist checks until a set popped out in idaho. ~$200 in shipping and they were on the car.
not bad... nice dish... nice mesh, no rubbing anywhere.
Except... now... i notice a distinct shimmy when decelerating between 50mph to 40mph. SO... upon close inspection of the wheels, i notice this:
a crack in one of the spokes, and what appears to be a pretty bad weld job underneath it, and a new crack appearing on the next spoke. i had these wheels shipped straight from the seller to my shop, so i never got a chance to inspect them. :-/ So here is you buyers beware advice for craigslist, which i’m sure you dont need to be told. ugh.
alright, so, in order to figure out the shimmy, the first thing i needed to get was some new wheels. i didn’t want to spend a million dollars on these things, but i wanted something brand new without any previous owner’s bodged welds, or who knows what. so off to the tuner market i went.
Now, please keep the flames to a minimum, as the brand i went with seems to have not so good a reputation for wheel strength. but, i went with a set of XXR 526s. they had a dish i liked, the bolt pattern, and offsets should be right on (i couldn’t believe the offsets would work)
and i was right: the offsets were off in the front. (bad calculation or assumption from the rondells). the tires were so tight up on the strut, the wheels wouldn’t even spin. [sorry for the crappy photo]
So, original wheels (with 18 year old tires) on temporarily. And as you may notice, the XXRs in the back, which are called “diamond black” is really just an grey-ish chrome. So... off to amazon for some spacers and...
“Hey guys, it’s fonzie from dipyourcar...”
I got 4 cans of the dark grey rather than standard black because (it was on sale) i was planning on covering it with the bright aluminum silver metalizer. and why pay 2x the price for something that isnt going to be seen?
anyway, when i was done, i kind of liked the dark grey.
and that’s where we are today.
so what say you oppo? stick with the dark grey? or take them off and put the silver over top?
it was getting dark by the time i got these all set up. so sorry for the crappy photos again.
fitment’s not bad huh?
now to figure out what to do with the center caps. :-/ and the schnitzers are for sale by the way.
a couple of notes if you ever buy these tuner wheels for a bmw:
- they’ve got 5x120 and 5x114 bolt holes available in the same wheel, but getting a guide bolt is really helpful, especially if youre using a spacer
- because bmw uses conical bolts, you can use the original bolts on tuner wheels (most oe’s dont have conical bolts or nuts)
- if youre using anything larger than a 5 mm spacer, i highly suggest you get longer bolts. i spent about 30 minutes trying to get the original bolts onto these wheels, unsuccessfully
- the center bore for these wheels is 76.1mm, the bmw hub is 75.6. that’s 0.25mm wiggle the wheels would have all around... too small for a ring. so i used some aluminum tape (you could use steel shim) to add that last bit of fill to the hub
- you can’t use a standard tire iron to get inside the bolt holes of these kinds of wheels. you need to use a socket. but be careful. i picked up a “no marr wheel socket” so i wouldnt ding these up. it has a plastic sheath around the metal socket to protect the wheels. not only is the plastic sheath too fat to fit in the hole, after i cut the plastic protector off, it was still too thick. impact sockets will be too thick also.